How to Choose a Broadhead: Points to Consideron Jul 15, 2012
Step one in the quest to finding your broadhead soul mate is to understand the purpose of a broadhead. That might seem like a no-brainer, but every year guys climb into their stands with arrows bearing heads that have dull and/or chipped blades. And if you understand the broadhead’s purpose, that’s the last thing you would ever do.
Bullets kill by shock, and by causing massive tissue and organ damage. You can hit a deer square in the shoulder with a bullet, and it will be dead before it hits the ground. Shock killed that deer before it had a chance to bleed. Arrows, on the other hand, kill solely by causing hemorrhage – bleeding. They don’t hit with enough force to kill by shock. To get the kind of blood loss necessary to kill a whitetail, your arrow has to slice into vital organs or through critical arteries that supply the body with blood.
Unlike bullets, broadheads must kill by causing extreme blood loss. This means blades must be razor-sharp to increase performance and must ultimately slice vital organs and arteries.
Keep in mind, the arrow doesn’t actually do any cutting. It’s simply the delivery system for the broadhead. That’s where the magic happens. And if the head is dull, it’s not going to have near the potential killing capacity of one with razor-sharp blades. Think about running a butter knife over your finger versus a scalpel. Which one’s going to cause more damage? No matter what head you choose, remember this – the sharper the better. I have yet to hear one bowhunter complain, “Man, such-and-such broadheads are just too dang sharp.”
Most broadheads on the market today are made of stainless steel. Others are carbon-steel or titanium. The carbon-steel and titanium heads are certainly more durable than the stainless heads, but they can cost considerably more. If money is no object, go for the higher-end heads. If cash is something you have to consider, pick a stainless head. Trust me plenty of deer have been killed with stainless-steel broadheads.
The right choice in broadheads will make the blood trail short and the memories last a lifetime.
To keep headaches to a minimum, pick a broadhead that weighs the same as your field points – 100 grains, 125 grains, etc. Ideally, the broadhead should fly just like your field points. This means you won’t have to adjust your sights before hunting with them. However, nothing is guaranteed, so be sure to spend some time on the range with your broadheads to determine if any sight changes are necessary.
Essentially, broadheads can be divided into two basic categories – fixed blade and mechanical. Mechanical-type heads are those that have moving parts, while fixed blade broadheads, as their name suggests, have none.