Trail Camera Basics

Posted by: PJ Reilly on Sep 9, 2012
Page 3 of 3


Whenever possible, I like to position my cameras facing the direction from which I expect deer to approach. This gives me the best chance of getting the whole deer in the frame. If you put your camera so that most deer walk past it from left to right or vice versa, you are going to miss shots. Let’s say a doe leads a 160-class buck down the trail and the doe trips the camera. Depending on how fast you have your camera set to take successive photos, the buck could be through the camera’s target area before it re-arms itself. If the camera were facing down the trail the deer were on, there’s no way one could get through without the camera capturing a photo of the other.

When shooting into fields, positioning a camera to catch approaching deer can be tough, since the camera most likely will have to be placed on the edge pointing out. You can angle those cameras, however, so they’re not just shooting perpendicular to the field. For example, put two cameras side by side, shooting at opposing angles out into a field, and you can cover a lot of country. You’ll need a deer to venture close enough to trip the camera to take a photo, but that photo will capture every deer within the camera’s view.


When a siutable tree cannot be found to mound your camera, alternatives do exist in order to place your unit in just the right spot.

Trees and fenceposts are the most obvious places to attach your cameras. But if you need to, you can plant your own post to hang a camera wherever you want. Just don’t put that post in the farmer’s way. I can tell you from experience, he might not bother getting off the tractor to move it.

Be sure there are no flexible branches or tall grass within your camera’s trigger range, or, on windy days, you’ll end up with a lot of photos of nothing when that vegetation trips your camera over and over. Some cameras have sensitivity adjustments that allow you to account for such situations, but I’d rather clear the camera’s trigger range than make the trigger less sensitive to motion.


It’s nearly impossible to totally protect a trail camera against theft and/or vandalism. There are lock boxes and cables you can employ to make it tougher for someone to harm or steal your camera, but, in the end, where there’s a will, there’s a way. Without a doubt, it’s a good idea to spend as much cash and effort as you can afford to secure your cameras and protect your investment.


Ultimately, scouting cameras help you fill more tags!


The best way to learn how to use trail cameras, or decide which one is best for you, is to buy a couple and experiment with them. Through trial and error, you’ll figure out how to get the performance you want, so you can get the drop on that elusive buck this fall. Good luck!

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2 Comments on "Trail Camera Basics"

Re: Trail Camera Basics #
I have both high end and low end cameras. I would defiantly spend the money for a "good" camera, u will be shocked of the amount of deer your low end cameras miss.
Posted by bowe bushey on 9/12/2012 2:26:09 PM
Re: Trail Camera Basics #
Wow, what nice deer hunting blog have you, nice posting, Thanks!
Posted by umesh on 11/15/2012 12:13:40 AM

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