How to Choose a Broadhead: Points to Consider

Posted by: PJ Reilly on Jul 15, 2012
Page 5 of 5


Early on, all mechanical heads basically looked the same. Each had blades that folded up completely from the back toward the tip, and deployed in reverse upon contact. Mechanical heads like the NAP Bloodrunner 2-Blade were invented in order to provide at least some cutting surface in the event the blades don’t function properly. If you shoot a Bloodrunner into a whitetail or any other animal and the blades don’t work, you’ve still got 1 1/8 inches of cutting diameter slicing through hide, flesh, and vital organs.

bh last

If you want to see more of these, take the time to test-shoot your broadheads before opening day.

If you’re trying to decide which broadhead is best for your particular setup and the game you intent to hunt, the best advice is to test, test, test…..and test some more. Try different models on the range and in the woods until you find one that works the way you want it to. When you reach that point, you will have found your broadhead “soul mate”….and the next game animal standing downrange will be in dire trouble.

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1 Comment on "How to Choose a Broadhead: Points to Consider"

Re: How to Choose a Broadhead: Points to Consider #
like the man said. the one that lets your arrows shoot the best groups. groups is the word here. tweek inserts, arrow rests, arrow components, adjust sights to match the group. keep them sharp. I have decided to use the g5 steel. practice with the exact head on each arrow, then sharpen carefully and that is it. no blades to change, screws to lose. remember KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid
Posted by tim gruver on 8/22/2012 8:21:57 PM

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